Tascam 58-OB - advice on replacement power mute reed relays

Mega-Ohm

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Great Southern Land
Gear owned
M-600, 58-OB, 52-B.
Hi all,

After a number of years of reading this forum without needing to post anything, I finally have the need to ask a question. Hopefully someone out there can help me.

I bought a TASCAM 58-OB over a decade ago for a very cheap price, even though I knew wasn't fully working. The majority of the functions actually work fine, and the heads seem good. The main problem is intermittent audio in and out, which I traced to major problems with the motherboard. I've thoroughly analysed this by swapping cards, etc, and the performance of record and playback is completely random. Playback is interrupted by pressing on the RCA inputs on the back, which is a sure sign of bad solder or cracks in the MB. I decided to pull it down and get the motherboard out, and saw someone has already attempted repairs by jumping bad sections with wire. I re-flowed solder and reinstated it, but no improvement. I concluded that it was unrepairable, and after keeping an eye out for several years, irreplaceable as well. So I plucked up the courage and have drawn a replacement in Kikad, which I'll be sending off to a fabrication house as soon as I can get the damn Solder Paste layer to show something. It's so cheap to get things done now, I'll probably do half a dozen or ten. If that seems like a lot of trouble to go to, it was a fun project to learn Kikad, and I hate the idea that a beautifully made and mostly functioning machine should just be scrapped for parts because of one circuit board.

I haven't even got to my question yet. Here it is:

The power mutes K1-4 (OMRON LAB2L 12v) were all working before I pulled it apart, but I want to do this job once and do it properly, and not have to pull the MB out for another 10 years at least. So I want to replace them. I read in another thread that the member Skywave suggested COTO part 8L02-24-00 (although that was for a 40 series machine I think). It's an awkward form factor, but I suppose with some extra wiring I could make it work. I can't find any information about the Omron original part, but I believe it is a DPST, Normally Open, 12v coil.

* Should I be buying the COTO 8L02-12-00 for the 58 instead? (12v coil)
* There's stacks of n.o.s. OMRON LAB2 24v on feebay, which just seems to be a 24 v version. Could I use that? Maybe I'd need to remove R-R4 (1k2) to get the coil voltage up.
* On feebay I've also found a FUJITSU FRL764D12/2AS-02 12Vdc which is DPST and appears to have the right form factor (6 pins, 3 at each end). But I can't find a datasheet. Worth a punt? Don't know if it's NO or NC.

Looking forward to some responses.

PS - any recommendation on PCB fab houses in the US that cater to hobbyists? A friend suggested OSH Park.
 
Update: I had 3 motherboards made by OSH Park (minumum quantity) and it worked. I decided to re-use the reed relays since I couldn't find any info on replacements, and I re-used all the 90 degree pin connectors. I used new pin headers for the 12 and 13 pin card connectors (had to cut up some 15 pin ones). . Good audio in and out of all card slots now. There's a few other problems, Card 5 has playback on REPRO but no SYNC and no RECORD. Relay I suppose. Tape tension is crap, so channel 8 record level is down (applying some back-pressure to the supply reel brought rec level back up). I don't have access to a tentelometer so I don't think I'll try it. RCA ins and out are all fine, but not all XLR ins and out are working. I might have to try reflowing the solder on that board, which is a shitfight to get out. While I was waiting for the boards to be made, I pulled the reel motors and cleaned them, that seems to have done the trick, they were previously sluggish but are running nicely now. So I'm getting there.

I'll add some photos when I figure out how that works.
 
@Mega-Ohm Noone can upload photos to the forum, they have to be hosted somewhere else and then linked here.
 
Nice work!
 
@Mega-Ohm Congratulations on the work I understand the 58 is working again?!
I am in a similar situation with my 58:
audio input ok but recording is not done on tape. intermittent audio in and out, but I haven't removed the motherboard yet.
How do you recommend proceeding?
I am in Italy
 
Just came across this. Great work, seriously. If more people took the initiative along these lines, untold number of older machines would have new life breathed into them. Last year I resurrected a 1989 TSR-8 by replacing the track amp cards and also the motherboard after a power supply failure caused an over voltage condition that took out a bunch of stuff down stream. So there's one more motherboard (and 8 track cards) for the TSR-8 no longer available to anyone else. And what a great machine it is, I'd love to see new versions of these PCBs.

Anyhoo, great work again. I love seeing this.
 
Andrea and Bravin, thanks for your kind words. I was motivated to fix it because I could see how much potential the machine had, and it was only a pcb being the difference between a junk machine and a good machine... surely a pcb can be made? The Reed relays all still worked so I reinstalled them; there's a diode on the board associated with those, and I re-used those too. A couple of the rec-play cards had bad relays, I replaced them with something labelled "M4-24H", all good now.

The machine is fully functional now, but needs a good mechanical and electronic tune-up. I decided to get it set up professionally and I'll try to maintain it from there.

I haven't made up my mind about which tape to use. I'm really tempted to use RTM900. I've read several posts here and elsewhere that say the 58 is a +6bd bias machine, and to use 900 which is +9, cap c42 on the rec/play cards have to be changed from 100pf to about 180pf. They are polystyrenes, which seem hard to get now. The technician I took it said it might be able to cope with 900, I guess we'll see, and if not, I think I'll mod the cards. He also said the heads were in great condition (visually).

Andrea, contact me if you want any advice. Suspect the motherboard if faults on record or playback appear to randomly jump around tracks, or don't follow the card (which means, if you have a fault on Ch 4, move that card to position 8. If the same failure shows up on ch 8, it's the card, but if 4 is still a problem, it's probably not the card). Press on the rca's around the back during playback or record can also provoke an issue, but don't go too hard!

I'm not sure if I'm allowed to say it here, but I have two spare new motherboards for sale on a well known musical instruments selling platform.
 

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