Issue with fader on a Model 16

[squid23]

Hi,

Introduction:
I bought this console 2nd hand from one of my friend. He had used it at home on and off since 2020. It looks in perfect condition, however it made me realize that the knobs and faders were actually of less quality than on the consoles I've been using in the past. It's my first Tascam, but know of Tascam to be an innovative and reputable brand. I can only guess that having saved costs on those would have helped for this product to be affordable, so I'm taking the greatest care of it.

The problem:
The fader of channel 10 clearly has a contact issue. The input signal displays with no issue neat input trim level, however, when going through the linear potentiometer, you can hear that there is an issue with it. If you compare the fluidity of its glide, compared to the other channels that operates how they should, you would feel a tiny bit of grit through the cap that sits on the lever of it.

What I can do:
Well, I can pop the bonnet and inspect the mechanical attributes of this fader, as this console has passed the warranty period. However, I haven't found any tutorial that would help me to perform this operation so basically I totally ignore how to access the slider the easiest way. I'm experienced with electronics, at least I can help with continuity by taking care of corroded parts without a problem. It's just that I don't want to be improvising.

What I can also do but not really into:
Is to take it to the repair shop however, I have all my time at the moment as I'm on leave and would be a little frustrated to be paying $200 or more for something I can do myself with a little bit of support from this community, so I thought I'd reach out before I'd hit a wall.

I'll be also sending an email to the repair store as he has my Model 12 which had a faulty channel on it.

Thanks for your time

 

[Max Relic]

Before opening the Model I would try with a contact deoxidant spray, better if it's the lubricant type. This kind of product is commonly used for refreshing mixer faders, but the less the better. If it doesn't work you can go the more invasive way.

 

[squid23]

Lubricant as WD40?

 

[-mjk-]

Lubricant as WD40?

Absolutely NOT!

Deoxit is a cleaner and lubricant for electronics.

WD40 will destroy electronic components. Yeah, I know the can says it can be used as a water displacement agent for car ignition systems. The can doesn't mention faders.

WD40 is a penetrating oil that is designed for penetrating into frozen mechanical joints such as nut/bolt assemblies in order to loosen them for disassembly. WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant, per se. That's why you have to keep squirting those door hinges every 60 days or so.

 

[Max Relic]

Lubricant as WD40?

Look for a product specifically made for electronics like 3M Novec Cleaner/Lubricant or DeoxIT FaderLube

 

[Blue Monster 65]

What Max and MJK said above - NEVER USE WD40 on your gear!!!

Deoxit FaderLube is the stuff you need. The 3M is good, too - I just have a history with Deoxit. Use their products all the time. Just adding my comments to help drive the point they made home. Good luck! Keep us posted on how things are going.

 

[-mjk-]

I didn't mean to yell, lol. But I saw someone who was about to step in front of a huge bus!

 

[Blue Monster 65]

Ha! I just thought you figured I had my earplugs in!

 

[Max Relic]

I feel I need to make a clarification: WD40 is a commercial brand with a reputation in the category of deoxidizers / lubricants, looking in their catalog I found this contact cleaner/lubricant spray that looks in the same league of the products I linked above. As always in these cases it's best to download and read the pdf documents to better understand if this product fits the job, you wouldn't want to smear fader knobs or tear the paint with a too much aggressive product.

 

[-mjk-]

@Max Relic, yes, they do have a pretty broad catalog of products. One that I like is their dry lube. I use that on my guitars and that keeps the strings fresh for a longer time.

 

[Max Relic]

@-mjk-, is that product gentle to fingertips?

 

[Mark Richards]

WD40 is a commercial brand ... I found this contact cleaner/lubricant spray that looks in the same league of the products I linked above. As always in these cases it's best to download and read the pdf documents to better understand if this product fits the job, you wouldn't want to smear fader knobs or tear the paint with a too much aggressive product.

, Max.

Craig's DeoxIT is known to be safe and works (at US$18 for a 5oz spray can on Amazon).

The WD40 Specialists Contact Cleaner is US$8 for an 11oz spray can on Amazon.

I'll stick with the Craig's DeoxIT, I think.

 

[Max Relic]

I think it depends which side of the pond one lives in. Unfortunately in Europe price/convenience is the opposite to USA market, the good news is there are alternative products at a reasonable price.

 

[-mjk-]

@-mjk-, is that product gentle to fingertips?

Max, I've been using it for several years with no issues. I clean my strings with an alcohol wipe and then follow with the dry lube. Of course it goes on wet so one has to let it dry. The only question that I have is concerning the long-term effect on the fingerboard. But again, so far, no issues.

 

[-mjk-]

I think it depends which side of the pond one lives in. Unfortunately in Europe price/convenience is the opposite to USA market, the good news is there are alternative products at a reasonable price.

@Max Relic, same in Asia. The products that I use are from Germany. The US products are more expensive in Taiwan.

 

[squid23]

Absolutely NOT!

Deoxit is a cleaner and lubricant for electronics.

WD40 will destroy electronic components. Yeah, I know the can says it can be used as a water displacement agent for car ignition systems. The can doesn't mention faders.

WD40 is a penetrating oil that is designed for penetrating into frozen mechanical joints such as nut/bolt assemblies in order to loosen them for disassembly. WD40 is not recommended as a lubricant, per se. That's why you have to keep squirting those door hinges every 60 days or so.

Damnit. I did spray WD40 in there, seems like it helped with ch3's fader, however the situation with ch10 remains the exact same.

Have I potentially caused irreversible damage to the unit, and if so, to what level?

 

[Max Relic]

Max, I've been using it for several years with no issues. I clean my strings with an alcohol wipe and then follow with the dry lube. Of course it goes on wet so one has to let it dry. The only question that I have is concerning the long-term effect on the fingerboard. But again, so far, no issues.

Thanks, I see it contains PTFE which is commonly found in similar dry lube products. PTFE has some drawback on surfaces to be painted (paint wouldn't perfectly stick to PTFE contaminated wood) but it shouldn't do any harm on well laquered/painted neck and fingerboard.

 

[Max Relic]

Damnit. I did spray WD40 in there, seems like it helped with ch3's fader, however the situation with ch10 remains the exact same.

Have I potentially caused irreversible damage to the unit, and if so, to what level?

Don't worry, let it dry out for a day or two then give it a little of a suitable contact cleaner and move the slider(s) back and forward for a minute to spread the cleaner evenly. Test the result both acoustically and mechanically, repeat if needed but don't exceed in quantity.