Display DM 4800 "Luxdisplays"


Active Member
Dec 24, 2019
Gear owned
I've purchased a "Luxdisplays" for DM 4800, because mine start to have Horizontal lines. The problem is, he won't contact me at all, since a week I'm writing him, he don't even bother to respond. Ebay blocked me out, because somebody else used my Password, at least they think so. So I've made a new account on EBAY and It works. But that guy, doesn't help me at all. Some members were talking about; Pdf and Some photos or Videos. Is it possible that you can send those to me. Thanks a lot..
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Hey Erdal, sorry to hear you are having problems. Have they been resolved yet? Hopefully you resolved things with Stephen, whom I have found to be more than accommodating with respect to the LuxDisplays products.
The LED replacement screens for the DM3200 and DM4800 consoles are a vast improvement over the factory LCD and, if one follows the instructions, are pretty straight forward to install. There were a couple hiccups between the Black and the Blue versions regarding their workability with 2Seemy installs (Blue works, Black doesn't), but for the most part installing them is pretty easy. Just remember to follow the instructions Stephen gives you specifically with respect to the blue and the black attenuators attached to the screen (Black is brightness and blue is contrast) and you should be up and running.
I believe that since we resolved the 2Seemy issue the blue contrast control comes pretty much pre-set now so that the image is already visible without having to turn the attenuator clockwise too far to bring it up. Then you just need to adjust the black attenuator to taste for brightness. However, be sure to follow Stephen's instructions in case things have changed.
Happy to help if I can, but lately my attendance here has been spotty. Send me your email if you like via a private conversation and it'll be quicker to get me to respond.
Here is a link to a PDF that explains the install:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jzearlfzb...uctions for Tascam DM4800 and DM3800.pdf?dl=0

One important point concerning the install: When you get to the part describing how and where to plugin the backlight connector, I believe on the new versions of the LED display a matching connector has replaced the old method of removing the Molex housing surrounding the two pins attached to the DM, and should simply plug in now instead of having to modify anything.
I can help you do this, no problem, but it would seriously be easier if we could communicate directly via email. It would be quicker.
A piece of advice, if I may, remove all the extraneous info here regarding your disagreement with Stephen. It's unnecessary for us to resolve this. You don't need a lawyer to fix this.

Thanks Jack, I have copied whole files. I have to find your mail address, and it will be much quicker as you said. Thx again for the Pictures & Pdf. There are some Photos I don't really get it, maybe I'll ask you when I install Display.

If you guys don't mind, it would be very helpful if you could share the install information on this forum (or at least the most important parts of it). I'm looking at more and more lines appearing againin my display, so it will be sooner rather than later that I'm up for a new dsiplay - and I'm sure others might follow suit..
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Hi Arjan P, that was my intention, but I had to delete it because of the" Luxdisplays" I thought, I was disturbing the forum? I have hard time with that guy of "Luxdisplays" Hope it would be resolved very soon. Other wise, I complain to Ebay. My Lawyer will derange him until I got refund, if his not answering at all, and I'll sue him. He's not doing any help, as well it is written on his Ebay page:**THIS DISPLAY CANNOT BE INSTALLED WITHOUT MY SUPERVISION. CONTACT ME FOR DETAILED STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL** And he is totally ignoring me.
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Is there a manufacturers part number for that display?
Hi -mjk-, it is packed on the antistatic plastic. I can't see the part number? But it came from "Luxdisplays" and from; Stephen James London: 5C nags Head Hill, BS5 8LN St. George
United Kingdom and Luxdisplays address:LUX Displays LTD Registered Office, Covent Garden
75 Shelton Street London LondonWC2H 9JQ United Kingdom
@ERDAL I live in Taiwan where all of this stuff is readily available. I have my electrical engineer, Dennis, working on display solutions for the Behringer X32 and WING consoles, both internal replacements and external displays through user-installed daughter boards. If I could get a manufacturer's part number for that display there is a good possibility that Dennis can find a suitable replacement for it. Dennis is also quite capable of devising an external display solution also.
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If you are ready to install this screen, you don't need to wait for Stephen to respond to you. I personally like the guy and understand why he is a bit eccentric about the install instructions. There are more than a few cases where clients have not read the instructions thoroughly when he provided them in the package, for whatever reason, hence his desire to make absolutely sure you get it before proceeding step by step. His bedside manner is, shall we say, a bit acerbic, but he provides an excellent product and knows what he is talking about. I've worked with more than a few musicians over the years that were far more challenging to deal with but came through in the end. Anyway, let's move on.

First thing is getting the case open to access and remove the factory LCD screen. There are other threads here that address this, but I'll hit the highlights:

  • Remove the screws securing the faux-wood side panels. Unless someone has changed them out, they should be a #2 Phillips
  • You'll need to remove the upper ventilation screen (Doesn't actually ventilate anything). There is in some cases a set-screw on the outside edge on both ends of the screen that needs to be removed, sometimes not. Once the set-screw is removed, take a small to medium sized flat-bit screwdriver to the exposed side edge and gently pries (pry) it up and ease it out of the slot. This will expose five #2 Phillips screws on the panel flange holding the top of the main mixer panel containing the screen.
  • Next you will need to gently pries (pry) the scribble strip panel up and out that sits just above the faders. It is held in place with rubber stripping and will ease up and out if you start from the side and work it up...gently. This will expose the #2Phillips screws holding the bottom flange of the mid panel (Can't remember if there are five or six off-hand)
  • Lastly, before you can open the mid panel containing the effects and LCD screen, there are two #2 Phillips set screws on the side edge of the panel (About 1/3 of the way down the side edge of the mid panel) that have to be removed before the panel will pivot forward from the top. Do this slowly and the panel hinge will catch at the bottom edge holding it open just past 90 degrees so you can get at the screen area.
Removing the old LCD Screen

  • Note in the first picture in the PDF that there is a tan panel sitting on top of the LCD screen that has a red and white pair of wires leading to the upper left of the picture attached to the main mixer board by a plastic (Molex) plug. Unplug it. Next, unplug the connector on the right side of that tan board, undo the two screws holding the tan board in place, and then remove the tan board and set it aside. As indicated in the PDF, the tan board is the Backlight board for the old LCD screen and will not be needed for the new LED screen.
  • You will also need to unplug the ribbon cable attached to the old LCD screen by grabbing it by both edges and gently working it out of the Molex connector. It fits snugly, but it will ease out without any trouble if you rock it side to side slightly as you tug. Do this before you remove the four #1 Phillips screws holding the screen in place.
  • You can now unscrew the four #1 Phillips screws holding the old LCD screen in place being careful not to drop them behind the main board. (I taped a piece of note/typing paper just below it to catch the screws. )
Installing the new LED Screen

The PDF is pretty self explanatory as far as installing the new LED screen, but there are a couple things I should mention.

  • All four screw holes on the new LED screen do not line up with the screw posts on the mixer. Only two of these on one side of the panel will be lined up, the two on the other side will catch the outside edge of the panel to help secure it in place. This creates a tiny offset for the screen in its housing, however does not obscure any part of it. I modified mine by opening the outside edge of the screw holes on the new LED screen with a Dremel tool, which is a delicate operation that I do not recommend unless you are good at this type of thing, which will also void any warranty. My OCD made me do it :)
  • Another important note: Where the red and white leads on the old Backlight board plugged in to the mixer panel, this is where the new LCD red and grey lead depicted in the PDF will plug in. In the PDF it describes removing the Molex housing surrounding the two pins on the mixer and then attaching the plug from the new LED screen. On the newer screens I believe they have the correct plug attached so you can just plug it in without removing the Molex from the mixer pins. If this is not the case, I simply spliced the lug from the old Backlight board onto the new LED screen to avoid potentially damaging the pins on the mixer. I solder spliced mine and shrink wrapped the connections, but a simple splice will work.
  • Finally, respecting the brightness attenuator (The Black Trimmer) and the contrast attenuator (The Blue Trimmer): I believe some changes have been madeof late that negate the need to adjust the Blue Trimmer very much at all. But follow the instructions specifically to bring the screen into view if this isn't the case. Also, be sure that the contrast control on the front of the DM console is centered before adjusting the Blue Trimmer. Properly installed, the contrast control on the front of the console will fade the screen to blank white when turned all the way counter clockwise, and to blank blue (Or Black depending on your screen color) when turned all the way clockwise.
  • Almost forgot about the ribbon connector. Make sure that you retain the original orientation when plugging it in to the new LED screen. Meaning, keep the blue print face-up so the number one pin matches the number one spot on the Molex connector.

I hope this helps and will offer this up for a sticky with a more detailed PDF when time allows. Intended to do it sooner, but it has been a crazy year for all of us. Also, if I have forgotten anything, please speak up.
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I need to say something else here since this thread seems to have gone negative for Stephen. I think it's wrong to openly attempt to take business away or publicly denigrate a guy who came to the table first with a seriously good screen replacement for these consoles. Just like the 2Seemy guys/girls, I think it deserves some consideration that they made the effort when no one else ponied up, enabling us to keep our gear running. I have a fundamental problem with sticking it to anyone over what may end up being a simple matter of miscommunication, especially when this forum is at its best when we work toward solutions without any unnecessary rancor.
Thx Jack, there is no consideration at all, I've bought it on Ebay "Guest" so he should provide me instructions with this Display, but he won't. So I'll follow him on Ebay complaining, and my Lawyer, sure we're gonna SUE him. This the first time, I'm encountering negative like that. I promise he will suffer.
I got a Display also from Steven. Easy to install. The only thing is that the Display is a different size than the original. You need to move it while Tascam is on, left or right to align the Display before you tighten the screws. Otherwise, you will see the Display frame after you close the DM up.
Thx Jack, there is no consideration at all, I've bought it on Ebay "Guest" so he should provide me instructions with this Display, but he won't. So I'll follow him on Ebay complaining, and my Lawyer, sure we're gonna SUE him. This the first time, I'm encountering negative like that. I promise he will suffer.
Sigh..., all that information I wrote specifically to help you install the screen - which, by the way, is more detailed and voluminous than what Stephen would have provided - has been for naught. Basically a waste of my time. Good to know. And, WTF... Life is just too damned short.
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@J L Bowie Thanks for your input, Jack, I'm sure this topic will be very useful for others getting the same display (I'm thinking of getting one pretty soon). I'm sorry to see so much negativity as well - I have no need whatsoever to read about personal Ebay feuds here, couldn't care less, but what can ya do...
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Alright Guys, I got the message, and it is all clear for me. First of all I am Turkish, obviously some translating problems" Even in my brain".. Second one, you might think, I am a bit rude?? No, if you buy a product on Ebay's Guest, any one who promise to help you, but since 2 weeks he is ignoring you. As you said jack, WTF... Thanks for your very friendly support. Won't write anymore on this F...... forum, I thought I had a problem, but some people has more then me, I Guess..
Erdal, no one wants you to go away, Turkish or not ;), least of all me. I get that your pissed at Stephen, and likely with good reason, but I really want you to get that new screen installed beyond all this. Up to you, but you are welcome here as far as I am concerned, and I will do whatever I can to help if you want or need it. If we can't keep international relations alive here, what hope is there for the rest of the world my friend:)
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@ERDAL There is no need for you to leave the forum at all. All I'm saying is, I have no interest in reading about your disagreements with others on other platforms.

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