DP32 has this ever happened to anyone?

darcy

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I my many years of working with bands and audio this has never happened. I'm not blaming it on tascam, but rather the cable I used. I was using a TSR cable 1 quarter inch in the back of the 3rd input on the tascam 32. During the end of the gig the cable would not come out. I ended up using a big to much force and it ripped the the tip of the cable, and it remained stuck in the unit. I managed to take the unit apart, and thankfully was able to remove the tip. But during the forcing of the cable out I managed to damage the the locking mechanism inside the tascam. It seems to work find, except the cables in input three do now lock or tighten in... should this be something I worry about now? or the future? or is it bad luck... thanks
 
Hi @darcy and welcome to the Tascam Forums.

The input connectors on the DP-32 do not have locking mechanisms. I have no idea why that cable got stuck, but I would give the connectors a little spray of DeOxit, which is both a cleaner and a lubricant. That is an extremely odd thing to happen.
 
Locking is the wrong term. Sorry, there's a snap, once the cable end is inside, it keeps the cable in place... not locking, but kinda like a click... there is some resistance to taking out a cable and putting one in... now input 3 has none of that... sorry I meant resistance, click, not locking wrong word... i have the same brand of cables for all my cables, there is restance, perhaps its the cable? but even guitar amps kinda click in place with an input.
 
That is the Tip spring contact on the jack. I would replace that connector. You might find that it no longer makes contact.
 
Your talking about the Jack inside the tascam unit right? Are there instructions or videos somewhere on how to do this? The input still works, but I would very much like to replace it.
 
Those are combo connectors that are integrated XLR and 6.5mm TRS jacks in a single unit. A few companies make them so ensure that you get one that will physically fit.

I wouldn't expect there to be a video about that. You just take the board out, desolder and remove the old one. Replace, solder and put it back together. I would say it's an hour job. But you may have to remove the old one in order to match it with a new one.
 
They are indeed soldered. The unit is almost brand new. I'm not sure if want to go about fixing it, just incase I really mess something up. I'm going to see if the warrenty coveres it? If not, I did test a 1/4 inch cable in the broken input, it works. If I can't get it fixed via warrenty, do you think a safe fix, would be using an XLR in the broken input?

Thanks
 
Contact the seller immediately! There is no reason whatsoever that a plug should get stuck like that. Do not settle for anything less than full replacement or repair at their expense.
 
...the cable would not come out. I ended up using a big to much force and it ripped the the tip of the cable, and it remained stuck in the unit
Have to say that's never happened to me in over 45 years of plugging and unplugging gear.

Mj's suggestion about Deoxit is good advice. Once a year I disconnect all my permanent plug connections, spray Deoxit onto the plugs, and reinsert them back into the jacks.
 
mjk and Mark. Sorry to go off topic. Regarding Deoxit, I am looking at it on Ebay and there are different types. There is a F5 and a D5. The F5 is plastic to plastic and plastic to metal and the D5 is a metal to metal contact cleaner. Which one do you recommend ?
 
@Stutz metal to metal in that case.

Did you contact the seller yet? I'd hate to see you miss the window of opportunity under warranty. Even though Deoxit is a premium product proven over time, I would not spray anything that was broken under warranty.
 
@Stutz with all due respect, it seems you are not listening. If your unit is under warranty DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING INTO THE CONNECTORS. Send it back immediately. Manufacturers are looking for ANY excuse to get out of having to pay for repairs or a replacement unit. Although DeOxit does no harm, it might just be the very excuse that would be used to deny your warranty claim. So, please, before you do anything, find out if the unit is still under warranty, and for heaven's sake, contact the seller immediately to set the date of contact. If you wait too long you'll miss the window of opportunity.
 
mjk. My fault for not making it clear. I do not need it for my DP-24SD, I have quite a bit of older gear, guitars and amps. I have a Leo Fender MusicMan Sabre 11 which over the years has had a few volume pots replaced (I seem to eat them) and it is now sounding scratchy once more. Also a fender Strat with the same problem. Normal contact cleaners don't seem to do much to alleviate the problem, that is why I was asking. However, thank you for your advice. My DP-24 is still in warranty and has been replaced once due to a sticky button. Thanks again,
 
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@Stutz Decades ago, I used several Caig products to clean and restore a Neve console at Boston's WNEV Channel 7 (before it became WHDH). The audio was cutting out during live news broadcasts. Their control room was positively pressurized but not filtered, and virtually every connector on the main board and individual channel strips was severely contaminated. The Caig products cleaned all of the contamination (verified by microscope) and restored connectivity where the plating had been worn off the connector pins due to excessive mating cycles (their solution was to continually swap channel strips. Many engineers do not know that the mating cycle life of those connectors is 50 cycles). Their current product, DeOxit can do wonders, as you have discovered.
 

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