Undo options

David Porter

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DP-32SD
Someone asked me the other day: "Why are there selectable options for one level of undo AND ten levels of undo?"

I couldn't remember why that is. Phil might have mentioned this in his videos - but I watched those 10 years ago. Am I forgetting the obvious? I can't recall why they provided the two options. I set mine to 10 and have never changed it.
 
Hey David. I'm guessing it's to provide flexibility regarding available SD card storage, and load/save times. Maybe "10" selectable was found to strike a reasonable balance for users who might need/want ability to choose from multiple takes, edits, punches or bounces. Coupling with virtual tracks provides a lot of different options. "Undo" needn't be only for backing out of mistakes.
 
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True Mark, and dynamically setting the Undo level can be great for managing storage. Undo level 10 if you are doing multiple versions of something and need to undo several settings to get back to a baseline; Undo level 2 if you are doing takes and just want to undo the last one every time.
 
The nice surprise for me was that you can change it to 10 at any time and still get at all the history, even if you've been running with it set to 1 up to that point.

I used to think having it set to 1 saved space on the card, so if you changed it to 10 part way through a session, it would only start building up a history from that point onwards, but that proved incorrect; it always saves old takes regardless of the setting.

So as the others have said, it's really down to simplicity of operation. Leave it set to 1 for quick & simple undo of the last operation with a single button press, e.g. when repeating Track Edit operations to fine-tune the start/end/to settings, and switch to 10 whenever you want to go back further.

Btw, I think the value of 10 is just an arbitrary size limit on the list of file pointers. Older files are still on the card, but you can only get at them with a computer.
 
Undo button DP32-
I’ve noticed lately that the undo button works intermittently lately- more often than not I’ll have to press it numerous times before it lights up. I read elsewhere that a good burst of computer grade compressed air can help, but I figured I would ask first ( as a work around when it’s being finicky I just punch-in and record over the undesirable part).
Any advice is appreciated!
J. Roth 😊
 
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Thanks-
Deoxit… again. Well I guess that’s as good as any suggestion. On a side note I would not recommend it for any of the knobs as it dissolves the grease pocket that provides the little bit of resistance when the knob is turned (learned that the hard way….)
 
@Jarrod Roth, DeoxIT Fader F-Series products are precision lubricants formulated specifically for moving contact surfaces like potentiometers, faders, switches, and conductive plastics. I've used it for many years.
 
@Jarrod Roth, DeoxIT Fader F-Series products are precision lubricants formulated specifically for moving contact surfaces like potentiometers, faders, switches, and conductive plastics. I've used it for many years.
I completely agree with the above statement. In the mid 90s I used Caig Laboratories products to restore function to a badly contaminated Neve console used on-air at Boston's WNEV Channel 7. DeOxit has a long pedigree and one does not have to be overly concerned about negative results.

Personally I love it when I spray a potentiometer and it suddenly becomes easier to turn!
 
Hello all again-
I’m back to belabor this point further and solicit advice.
I did shoot some D5 Deoxit around the Undo button on my DP32- didn’t seem to do anything. However, I’ve noticed that it does work when I push down hard on the button.
So, is there a more effective way to administer Deoxit? Perhaps manipulating the panel button a certain way?
I would like to avoid pushing so hard that the switch below gets damaged or a loose or broken solder joint occurs as a result.
Lastly, would it be prudent to detach the top cover panel to address the problem directly and If so, how labor intensive might the process be?
Thanks again in advance. 😊
 
Many reports suggest gently pressing & releasing the button several times to "work the fluid through" fixes the problem, although I've also read that these membrane buttons are sealed so not sure why this works.
Your previous posts on this topic mentioned you left the machine standing for 8 hours after spraying, and this also worked, so maybe there are paths for the fluid to seep into.
I agree with you in that using force would lead to more damage eventually.

Re. applying spray to the trim pots, the best way (imo) is to open the unit up and spray directly into the pot body. I've not done this on the DP machine so don't know if the pots are sealed, but if not, there will be a gap in the body where you can direct the spray and avoid dissolving the grease around the shaft. I'm with the camp who prefer some tactile resistance on controls :)

There are photos somewhere of the insides so you can assess the degree of difficulty. Just take precautions re. static and handling of delicate ribbon cables.
 

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