Well...Here's another fine mess...

[Cjs2k-22]

A few years ago I purchased my DM24 from a guy on Ebay. The console worked fine for about 3 years until one day it just sputtered and died. Dead. I found out it was my own doing. The DM24 has a serous design flaw which is probably the reason it was discontinued. It overheats. You can't leave them on overnight or for long periods without a cool-down period. I had a fried switching power supply, which is located under the transport controls, not only will it fry power supplies but it will fry the monitor as well. Luckily, my monitor survived. About a week ago I found a switching supply on Ebay and bought it. It came today and I installed it. I suppose you are expecting a happy ending here? Sorry to disappoint you, but the only sign of life is the monitor flickering about a second apart. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I think I also need the "panel PCB" as the switches are all sticking very badly. And if anyone knows where a "transport PCB" might be for sale, I would be interested. Thanks, CJ

 

[wkrbee]

I have serviced a number of Dm-24s.The only time I have seen the power supply,(which is a OEM part), problem has been when the owner removed the plastic feet from the bottom,(which blocks the air flow from under the unit,up and out the vents behind where the mic pres are), the unit is set on thick carpet which also blocks the vents on the bottom,or when "five volts too low for proper operation" error bubble pops up and the user ignores it. If the Inductor has not fried,the repair is simple.There are caps the fail.I replace them with higher temprature caps.They run hot.Leaving them on 24/7 is not a good idea,but they are not NEVE/SSL/analog mixers which need to be left on.The power supply you bought is probably not supplying the proper voltages.You can verify that with a volt meter.

 

[Cjs2k-22]

Thanks for your reply. I made sure when I installed the console in the inclosure thatI built for it, that the bottom was completely exposed and had access to open air. The power supply that I purchased just recently is the same type of supply that was in the unit. I have the service manual but it does not have any info on that particular power supply. From what I understand, there are several different voltages coming from the supply. If you know what I should be expecting from it I would appreciate the info, I was told by a tech friend that works at Full Compass, the voltages were something like +/- 12v and a 5v as well. Not at all sure about those numbers or where on the supply I would meter to check them. Any more help would be appreciated. Thanks, CJ

 

[Muziekschuur]

I repaired the DM24 myself. I changed out 4 caps and the machine powered up again.

 

[Cjs2k-22]

If you are referring to the caps on the switching power supply, I replaced all of the caps that were recommended for replacement by Tascam in a bulletin released regarding their possible failure. It didn't make any difference in my case because other vital components were fried. Thanks, CJ

 

[Cjs2k-22]

Which 4 caps are you referring to?

 

[wkrbee]

Page 1 of 44 of the schematic section has the wiring diagram.The power supply is called"SW REG PCB" @ E6.All the voltages are labeled.The panel switches are cheap and available at Parts@Teac.com if you are in the U.S.

 

[berl]

Here are the voltages you should expect :

CN 8
0V ; NC ; 12V

CN 12
-12V ; -12V ; 0V ; 12V ; 12V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 5V ; 5V; 5V

CN 7
12V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 3,3V ; 3,3V ; 3,3V

CN 9
0V ; 0V ; 5V ; 5V

CN 11
0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 5V ; 5V ; 5V ; 3,3V ; 3,3V ; 3,3V

CN 10
0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 5V ; 5V ; 3,3V ; 3,3V ; 3,3V

CN 13
NC ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 0V ; 5V ; 5V ; 5V ; 5V ; 5V ; 5V

and a thread (in French sorry) about replacing this power supply by a Flex-ATX one : http://fr.audiofanzine.com/console-nume ... 4,p.2.html

I repaired several PSU and most of the time the problem came from faulty condensators on the output section (see this : http://sonotrad.org/DM24_condos.pdf )