M12 Funky Power Switch

Cheers Ron, much obliged.

Stew
 
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My Legion replacement switch arrived today from China, and it could not have come at a better time, as my switch had become almost non-functional in the last week or so. Bought it directly from LCSC Electronics Technology Co. Cost me $8.20 shipped. Having previously watched the video and the detailed pics from @Chip and @Josh68, I had already worked out my plan. I taped off the top and bottom of the Model 12's power switch area with more than a few layers of masking tape to protect the chassis and finish. Then just slipped my smallest, thinnest flat-head screwdriver under the edge of the switch and began prying it out slowly from the top and bottom. It does take some effort. Gotta love that glue. I was careful to go as slowly as possible in the hope of keeping the two leads attached to the lugs. Well, once I pried it loose, the red lead was still attached, but the black had detached and retreated back into the innards of the Model 12. Judging from the pics in this thread though, I figured it couldn't physically get too far away from the narrow opening, and that turned out to be correct. With some small needle-nose pliers, I was able to reach right into that narrow opening, grab the black lead, and pull it right through, being careful not to pull it too far and potentially disconnect it from the board. A quick attachment of the leads to the new switch, then popped the new switch right into place. It powered right up!
I would say to anybody on the fence about repairing their Model 12, just go for it. This really could not have been easier, and it took me maybe five minutes total. In fact, I spent more time applying masking tape than doing the actual repair. If you're careful, you really do not have to open up the unit at all. I think we now have enough collective knowledge to get those wonky switches out there replaced with relative ease.
Worth mentioning that although I assumed my Legion switch would look exactly like the one it was replacing, it looks almost identical to the Bulgin switch @Chip posted in the first page of the thread. Not sure why exactly.
Big shout out to @Chip and @Josh68 for daring to get into the guts of their Model 12's and provide all this useful info. I would not have even considered any of this had they not taken the leap. Thanks guys.
 
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Thanks @Mysterytrain - this is perfect timing for me. My switch started acting up just last week, and I'm expecting my (Legion) replacement to arrive any day now. I plan to try the same approach as you and only open up the mixer if it goes awry.

Cheers!!
 
Update: my new switch(es) arrived. I bought 3x as they were only about 40 cents each..

LCSC#: C312615 Order Qty.: 3
Mfr.#: SS21-BBIWF-S4-R
Mfr: Legion
SPST 10A Solder Lug 250V Plugin Rocker


https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Rocker-Switches_Legion-SS21-BBIWF-S4-R_C312615.html

I taped up the area around the old switch, and levered it out (slowly) with a sharp knife. It was glued in, but came out relatively easily. The wires were attached quite firmly (though not soldered) so I was able to gently ease them out through the hole, still attached. Swapped the wires over to the new switch and it popped right in.

It works like a charm - the Model 12 now starts up every time.

The whole exercise took about 15 minutes start to finish.

I've not seen anyone mention this, but as I put the new switch in, it occurred to me that this might not be the last time I have to do it.. The new switch is not identical, slightly different markings, but the dimensions do seem exact.. and is probably functionally the same... and very possibly just as likely to fail as the original.. For now though, I feel happy with the fix. And am not anxious about having to do it again if necessary.

Some photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bRKBvqn2nMhWRvUMA

Again: thanks to @Chip @Josh68 @[URL='https://www.tascamforums.com/members/mysterytrain.12957/']Mysterytrain[/URL] for the information and insight...
 
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very possibly just as likely to fail as the original
I’ve watched this thread (and other M12-concerned threads) with interest, as I nearly bought a 12 (ended up choosing a DP, after comparing the strengths of each unit).
It was probably a very wise move to purchase additional switches; in the case of another failure, you can repeat the replacement.
But I haven’t noticed anybody saying there has been a failure after replacement; it seems apparent that the faulty switch problem was clearly with the factory part; and a non-factory replacement seems to clear it up.
 
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I haven’t noticed anybody saying there has been a failure after replacement; it seems apparent that the faulty switch problem was clearly with the factory part; and a non-factory replacement seems to clear it up.

Fingers crossed!
 
You can always leave the switch in the ON position and buy a cheap power strip and exercise that power switch instead.
 
You can always leave the switch in the ON position and buy a cheap power strip and exercise that power switch instead.
If I were smart enough to know which way the pointy end of the guitar goes, I mighta thought of that...o_O
 
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Thanks Rocky!

I went for the Ebay listing and it arrived next day. I would highly recommend to anyone UK based. (They come in a pack of 2).

Install wise I did manage to pry the old switch out with a knife however I made a rookie error and accidentally pulled the connecting cable out of the board, doh! Ended up having to open the whole thing up and re-attach. All in all it took about an hour including the disassemble and I now have a functional switch. Happy days.
 
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Glad that worked out!!
Thanks for following up, so others know that part worked fine.
 
I've ordered a couple of these, 'just in case', but it stuck me that another solution would be to find an inline switch that could do the job - I do this with a couple of bits of hardware that don't even have on/off switches built in.

However, the plug screws to the socket on the M12. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy such a thing (screw-on socket, to switch, to screw-on plug)?
 
it stuck me that another solution would be to find an inline switch that could do the job

You mean like a power strip?
 
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Ha! Well yes, but something a little more streamlined and elegant.

Functionally the same though.
 
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