Morgelec
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2020
- Messages
- 28
- Karma
- 23
- Gear owned
- Model 12
M12 Funky Power Switch
- Thread starter dio_g_sol
- Start date
Max Relic
Soundaholic
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2022
- Messages
- 365
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- 304
- From
- Cagliari, Italy
- Gear owned
- Portastudio 244, Model 12
@Chip Well done. I posted the link to your tutorial in the Model 12 thread on Gearspace Forum, hope it's ok with you.
Kerestrenen
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2022
- Messages
- 1
- Karma
- 4
- Gear owned
- Tascam Model 12
Chip
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2022
- Messages
- 3
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- 11
- Gear owned
- Tascam Model 12 and 24
Logrinn
Veteran
Thank you, Chip! I have a part on order from Tascam, and it looks like it will never arrive, so may just order the switch you used instead. For anyone who cares (and could possibly find one), the official P/N is, according to Tascam, X612651022.
I also have the same problem with the power switch. Because of the warranty and risk of damage, I didn't like to open the device. So I decided for a simple workaround:
Connect the power supply to a switchable power strip and do never switch off the Model 12 by the original switch.
Connect the power supply to a switchable power strip and do never switch off the Model 12 by the original switch.
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Thanks again, @Chip, for instructions to fix this switch.
I finally got a stock Tascam switch, which is, in fact, a Legion SS21 two-pin rocker. The only direct reference I could find to this switch is this Ebay posting (currently active, I don't know for how long).
Tascam/Teac sold me this switch for a grand total of $10, shipping included. They've now jacked the price to $27.59 for the switch alone, and the new P/N is X612651029.
I won't say it's necessarily worth it to get the switch from them at this price, but it is a perfect fit, and comes with wires and a connector attached. I used no glue to reassemble, it snapped in so nice and tightly.
Long story short, I followed just 2 parts of Chip's instructions. I removed only the bottom plate and the input board with the power jack.
I actually removed the switch before disassembling, by carefully prying it out of its rectangular opening using a couple of very small, flat-headed screwdrivers and an old credit card to use mostly as a base for prying the switch out without marring the casing. The factory glue is tenacious, but I managed to get it out pretty cleanly. The switch's connector actually popped out of the board as I pried the switch out of its opening and then pulled the wires through.
Once I removed the bottom and board, I simply fed the new wire and connector through the opening, attached the connector to the board, reinstalled the board, and finally snapped the new switch into place. Tested things out, then reinstalled the bottom plate. The whole operation took me between 10 and 20 minutes.
I'm linking some pictures, in case they're helpful
Switch, Switch side 2, Attached to power board, Before snapping into place
I finally got a stock Tascam switch, which is, in fact, a Legion SS21 two-pin rocker. The only direct reference I could find to this switch is this Ebay posting (currently active, I don't know for how long).
Tascam/Teac sold me this switch for a grand total of $10, shipping included. They've now jacked the price to $27.59 for the switch alone, and the new P/N is X612651029.
I won't say it's necessarily worth it to get the switch from them at this price, but it is a perfect fit, and comes with wires and a connector attached. I used no glue to reassemble, it snapped in so nice and tightly.
Long story short, I followed just 2 parts of Chip's instructions. I removed only the bottom plate and the input board with the power jack.
I actually removed the switch before disassembling, by carefully prying it out of its rectangular opening using a couple of very small, flat-headed screwdrivers and an old credit card to use mostly as a base for prying the switch out without marring the casing. The factory glue is tenacious, but I managed to get it out pretty cleanly. The switch's connector actually popped out of the board as I pried the switch out of its opening and then pulled the wires through.
Once I removed the bottom and board, I simply fed the new wire and connector through the opening, attached the connector to the board, reinstalled the board, and finally snapped the new switch into place. Tested things out, then reinstalled the bottom plate. The whole operation took me between 10 and 20 minutes.
I'm linking some pictures, in case they're helpful
Switch, Switch side 2, Attached to power board, Before snapping into place
Here's another site selling a very similar switch. May be the only difference is the markings, but not entirely sure.
By the way, the original switch I pulled from my unit is exactly the same switch (an SS21)
By the way, the original switch I pulled from my unit is exactly the same switch (an SS21)
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Came here to say thanks to Chip for the video, and to share my hacky workaround the switch. My faulty switch still wasn't working with the power cord trick, so I put in a small wire to permanently bypass the switch. Now the power cord without fail turns on the mixer. This means I didn't have to struggle with removing the switch and getting a new one.
https://imgur.com/a/F2v0zHB
https://imgur.com/a/F2v0zHB
I too am having the switch issue. Curious, since the switch seems to be mounted directly to the chassis, would it be possible to just pry it loose with something like a flat-head screwdriver, instead of opening it up and pulling the circuit boards? Sure, you would probably break the existing switch in the process, but it's gonna be thrown away anyway. It seems like then you just connect the two leads to the new switch and pop it back into the panel. Am I perhaps missing something?
Chip
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2022
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- 3
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- 11
- Gear owned
- Tascam Model 12 and 24
@Mysterytrain I imagine you could pry the switch out without taking the mixer apart. I believe that's exactly what @Josh68 did. However when you go to connect the new switch I feel it would be rather difficult to feed the wires through the small hole and slip the two connectors on to their appropriate pins. It may be possible, but seems like it would quite a headache. Would love to hear from anyone who has tried that, though!
@Mysterytrain, @Chip is exactly right. I did pry the button out without opening anything, but had to open the mixer to hook things back up. But Chip did the dirty work of fiddling for a long time and making a video (thank you) so that when I did it, it took me all of 10-20 minutes, max, to get the new button hooked up and everything reassembled. Since I had a stock switch, all I had to do was snap it in place. No glue or anything.
I used a very small, flat screwdriver to carefully pry out the old switch. Overall, I think this was easier than coming at it from the inside.
My new switch is perfect and I'm happy as a clam. (Are clams really that happy, though?)
I used a very small, flat screwdriver to carefully pry out the old switch. Overall, I think this was easier than coming at it from the inside.
My new switch is perfect and I'm happy as a clam. (Are clams really that happy, though?)
Made me very happy once I fixed it. I guess if you're worried about breaking something, you could skip it, but really, it's an easy fix, and I'd recommend just doing it.
My Model 24 suddenly stopped switching on today. It worked fine yesterday. Today I turned the switch on and absolutely nothing.
It's gone straight from working to not, unlike others who reported some temperamental behaviour where they got their Model 12 to switch on after a few tries.
It's still under warranty so I'm going to send it for repair.
It's gone straight from working to not, unlike others who reported some temperamental behaviour where they got their Model 12 to switch on after a few tries.
It's still under warranty so I'm going to send it for repair.
Thnak you very much @Chip had to do the repair and now it works brillantly.
The video is great, only one comment, on yours it looks way easier to remove the glue around the switch than it was on mine.
I used these switchs :
https://amzn.eu/d/bp4mRm3
They are bigger and you will need to enlarge the hole but they work perfectly fine.
The video is great, only one comment, on yours it looks way easier to remove the glue around the switch than it was on mine.
I used these switchs :
https://amzn.eu/d/bp4mRm3
They are bigger and you will need to enlarge the hole but they work perfectly fine.
Hi Having similar on/off problems with my m12 but I'm just getting a backlight and a flashing bluetooth light and the 48v light comes on when I press the button, nothing else happens, I thought I'd change the on/off switch which I did, available from Maplins electronics which used to have a lot of shops in England but online now, the switch was only 48p so very cheap.
Just wondered if anybody knows were I can get the circuit diagram or service manual as I do dabble a bit and it might be something simple but probable not! Thanks Ron
Just wondered if anybody knows were I can get the circuit diagram or service manual as I do dabble a bit and it might be something simple but probable not! Thanks Ron
Hi Here's a link to on/off switch for the m12. Hope this helps.
https://pro.maplin.co.uk/catalog/pr...off-rectangle-rocker-switch-spst/category/89/
Thanks Ron
https://pro.maplin.co.uk/catalog/pr...off-rectangle-rocker-switch-spst/category/89/
Thanks Ron
