Power Conditioner

[Peter Batah]

Good day all. I plan on purchasing a rack mountable power conditioner in the not too distant future. Your thoughts, input, recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Have a wonderful day / night. Peter

Note: Will be used to power / protect my 4800, near field monitors, and possibly a limited number of outboard gear.

 

[skier]

Hey Peter,

Some quick thoughts about power conditioners - they do several things:

1. Provide some protection from lightening;

2. Provide some protection from spikes and other transients on the power line; and

3. Provide some protection from surges.

I say “some” because lightening in particular is impossible to truly, fully protect from if you get a direct strike from the main bolt, unless we get into a discussion of sophisticated grounding systems, Farady cages, and the such which cost significant dollars.

Also importantly, if you mean a true power conditioner (as opposed to a surge suppressor - people often confuse the terms), a true power conditioner will do still more, such as smooth out the voltage provided to the load, filter out RF energy from nearby transmitters (from broadcast services, ham and CB operators, police or fire vehicles nearby, induced by microwave ovens and other appliances in your home or nearby homes and businesses on the same side of the transformer feeding your house/apartment, etc.), reduce or eliminate power line noise, etc.

There’s another category that I prefer to a power conditioner, and that’s an Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS). Like a power conditioner, a UPS will act as a buffer between your power line and the load. And like a surge suppressor, it will also reduce and quench most transients and spikes so they don’t get to sensitive electronics. I have a UPS powering the most sensitive parts of my studio (DAW, DM, pre-amps, etc.) It even powers my monitors and subwoofer – I don’t generally listen at high volumes, normally around 74dB and short spurts in the low to mid 80s, but try to keep it sparingly to save my hearing which I did damage some in my teens and 20s as a rock musician.

UPS also have several types. The two mentioned above are a form of “standby UPS” – they kick in immediately when the power fails. If you go this route, look at something at least in the 1,500VA to 2,000VA range and expect to pay from $500 – $1,000 U.S. Make sure it provides a true sine wave output, not a somewhat rounded square wave that’ll surely contaminate your recordings.

I originally had the thought that, as with using a UPS on an office computer, that it will kick in instantly when the power fails and let me continue recording that take. HOWEVER, the few times a power did fail while recording, the surprise of having the main lights go out and my guitar or bass amp fail (if one of those was the instrument I was playing) still made me pause or stop, thus ruining the take. As a result, I’ve realized that the primary value of the UPS is protecting my equipment from damage.

Another and still better type of UPS is the double conversion type - this one is ALWAYS on line. AC power coming in is rectified to DC and used to charge the batteries. The batteries provide power to an inverter that regenerates and filters the outgoing AC power that then feeds the load. This provides true isolation from the power line in that all incoming problems get eliminated when the incoming power avec spikes and noise is changed to DC to feed the batteries. This is the best and most expensive UPS. While I say that, I didn’t want to spend that much money of protection. If I was a commercial studio with a thriving business, I would have gone this route and also included a standby generator. But alas, I am merely a simple project studio with simple means…

So, a surge protector does just that, and only that, to the limits of what it can absorb. A power conditioner performs most of the surge protection functions as well as smoothing out the peaks and dips in power. A UPS does all those things, plus instantly kicks in to continue providing power to the load from its internal battery(s) for as long as the batteries can provide energy. And among UPS types, a true sine wave output is better than a sine wave approximation, and a double conversion unit is the very best.

I hope this helps and that my attempts to be complete and clarify doesn’t instead further confuse the issue.

Jerry

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier Good morning Jerry. As always, you have provided me with a wealth of information and knowledge. I am familiar with the UPS product that you mentioned. I use the smaller APC models to protect my client's workstations and hopefully provide them with enough time to send out that all important email, save that Word doc, then shutdown. I have looked at some of the Furman rack mount devices. I am just not sure what I should be looking for specifically. Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.ca/Furman-Advanc...591629110&sprefix=Furman+power,aps,159&sr=8-5

Have a wonderful day! I am off to help my daughter hang some lovely plants that she bought over the weekend. I hope that she remembers that Fathers' day is just around the corner.

 

[skier]

I have several APC UPSs myself and the one in my studio is, in fact, a Smart-UPS 1500 and provides a sine wave output. The APS Back-UPS series are ones made by APS that only provide a sine wave approximation and are not recommended for an audio studio. Also an interesting coincidence, my UPS feeds the very same Furman conditioner in my rack that you are considering. However, that model Furman unit is not a power conditioner, it is a surge suppressor. Furman’s balanced power products are power conditioners and provide an isolation transformer which helps with power smoothing and reducing common mode noise.

I originally installed the Furman unit first and added the UPS when I added the DM. Prior to that, I used a Mackie 24/8 when I recorded to tape and later to my first DAW and just wanted to keep spikes from destroying my basic studio equipment. But I included the Smart-UPS when I added the DM to better protect my growing financial investment. The Furman also controls some incandescent strip lights under the upper shelves over my recording desk. They stay on if the power fails keeping me out of total darkness if it’s evening and giving me time to grab a flashlight. I’m planning on replacing those incandescent strings with LED lighting which I need to find some time to do.

So, I’m using the UPS to do the heavy lifting of providing clean power and the Furman is just a backup surge suppressor (not a power conditioner) to hopefully suppress any transients if some should get through the UPS. I also feed the UPS from an isolated ground receptacle to further reduce the chance of electromagnetic noise getting into the power. You don't have to do all these things if your sound is clean and you're not having problems. I purposely designed and build the room that is my studio to be an audio studio. And being an engineer, I incorporated various means, most not very expensive, from isolated ground receptacles to incorporating a UPS to cable separation and more, just to reduce the chances of any problems. It's easier to do when building the studio than to go back and retrofit it later if it turns out it's needed. I feel the UPS is the best investment if you're only doing one thing..

Good luck with the plant hanging and Father’s Day! (Are you hoping that your daughter will get you a high-powered, expensive power conditioner, UPS, or 50kW backup generator? If so, can you push for another father in Connecticut who’s always trying to help you out? I mean, just sayin.)

 

[Arjan P]

I have looked at some of the Furman rack mount devices. I am just not sure what I should be looking for specifically.

So what is the reason you are looking for a power conditioner? I think a very important question to answer is: How reliable is the grid power supply in my country/region? How many power outages happen? How many times does the grid create surges or peaks? In my country the power grid is very steady (in frequency and voltage) and I can't remember the last time there was an outage. So I have no power conditioners either..

 

[skier]

You ask a great question Arjan, and I'm envious. We lose power here several times each year, and it's dirtier in the summers with lots of A/C units and chillers kicking in and out. Another question each studio owner should ask is about the frequency and severity of lightening storms in their area. We get them here somewhat frequently in the summer, but Florida gets them much more frequently and more severely than most other places in the world. Peter is far enough north that A/C may be less common unless that's changed with global warming, and I have no idea of his power purity or thunderstorm activity. All good questions!

 

[Peter Batah]

@Arjan P Thank you for joining in the conversation. I am no expert but I would tend to say that our power source is very clean and reliable. Power outages are rare. We do get the occasional thunder / lightning storm but nothing out of the ordinary. As a matter of fact (and @skier may already know this) I live in a province that provides hydro electricity to other parts of our country and sells a great deal of power to our neighbors south of the border (U.S.A)

So, I am beginning to think that perhaps I was wrong in using the term "conditioner". Maybe I simply should have said that I would like a unit mounted in my Argosy desk where I could have my DM, Focal monitors, and rack mounted DAW plugged in to it. One wire running to the wall outlet. Of course surge protection would be a plus as well. I just realized that what I may be describing is just one glorified extension cord!

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier I probably turn on our A/C a dozen times or so on average! Wouldn't mind if I had to turn it on a little more often because you know how much I absolutely hate winter and the cold.

 

[skier]

Yes, you've made it quite clear how you don't love my favorite season.... how could you??? Be that as it may, I do think it's a good idea to have a surge suppressor protecting your studio. Even if you've never had a problem with dirty power and lightening in the past, that doesn't mean you never will. And it'd be better to have protection when you need it than to find yourself replacing equipment because something happened that you didn't expect.

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier Couldn't agree with you more. So, I should look at some of the Furman products that offer surge protection. By the way, you would love the weather we're having. The wife and I are sitting out on the deck with sweaters on. It was 16 degrees Celsius this morning. It feels more like fireplace weather. Have a great evening Jerry.

 

[skier]

Furman makes good products, so does APC, Tripp Lite, Belkin, Eaton, Siemens, and others. But I stay with the major players with whom I've had good luck, such as the foregoing. There are many, many surge suppressor manufacturers (or at least labels) and they're not all of the same quality. Some use no more than one MOV (metal oxide varistor) which is a device which "clamps" (suppresses) a high voltage spike when it comes in so it doesn't rupture one or more semiconductor junction(s) in any solid state components. This is a good thing, but the power rating of the varistor is important and even one good varistor is not a sufficient suppressor in my mind. I want to see high-capacity varistors (higher joule rating) , which means they can quench larger power spikes, more than one varistor, possibly some toroidal coils and transformers, etc. I admit that we start getting into power conditioner territory when we start adding inductors, but that does mean more protection and possibly some voltage smoothing. (I'm using the word spike to mean all sorts of transients of various power levels and durations). In other words, you want a device that's likely to suppress higher power spikes and other forms of noise, and last for years without failure or loss of effectiveness.

Minimal suppressors will work only on smaller problems and more easily burnout or quench only some of the spike. So, don't try to get by with a no-name, cheap surge suppressor, often in the $5 - $15 range. Get a good one that may cost more like $30 - $50. While higher price doesn't automatically guarantee higher quality, low price almost always guarantees poor or minimal quality. A good suppressor is even likely be heavier in weight due to containing more and better quality components. So, don't purchase based on higher cost and heavier product alone, look at the specs and buy a reputable manufacturer's product. But remember that cheap and light is almost assuredly less than you want.

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier Thank you Jerry. See you in science class tomorrow. Same bat time, same bat channel!

BTW: Spoke with a sales rep at one of the more reputable audio retail outlets here in town. I ordered a pair of Mogami cables and replacement pads for my Sony MDR-7506 headphones. I also asked that he provide me with a price on the Furman PL-Plus C 15 that I mentioned in an earlier post. Pricing on the cables and pads were UBER aggressive. Unlike the Furman device where Amazon had them beat by almost $70. Gotta love Amazon (most of the time)!

He also mentioned that I should not consider plugging the Focal monitors into the Furman because of the varying demand on power required by amplification section. Bad idea!

Have a great evening! Peter

 

[skier]

It'll all depend on how load you listen; that's why I mentioned that most of my listening is 74 - 80dB in my first response post to this thread when I said even my monitors and sub are powered from my UPS. If you like to listen quite loudly, and you're powering your monitor amp (whether built in or separate) through a UPS or power conditioner or suppressor, that device needs to be able to handle the power of everything plugged into it and louder means more power is coming through the device, so make sure it's rated for it.

A difficult issue when attempting to determine power usage is what to use as the monitor power load. It's not like a computer where the power supply states it uses up to 400 watts - sound is much more dynamic than the computer power supply max output. Music is extremely variable with loud and soft passages, transients (think symbol or gong crash, fortissimo, etc.), and everything else that contributes to the songs dynamic range. Classical music is likely one of the most dynamic genres whereas rock is typically somewhat less so depending on the style. But his warning is appropriate.

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier I really have to be mindful about keeping the sound at a reasonable listening level. Started having some issues with my hearing a several months ago. I know how we can be tempted to "pump up the jam" when the material merits it.

 

[skier]

I agree. As I mentioned earlier, I did some damage to my hearing years ago when I performed regularly and I regret it. I didn't realize how loud we were playing.

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier This arrived yesterday. Looks like I am going to need a 1.75" blank insert for the desk. I was hoping to place it where you see the word Argosy in the second photo. Unfortunately, part of the inner workings of the desk is obstructing the area behind the the 1U plate.

Thanks again for your time and guidance. And, to everyone else who was kind enough to chime in. Have yourselves a safe & wonderful week. Peter

 

[skier]

You need a blank 1U plate either way, but it looks like you also have a second option. You can fill the existing void above the Furman unit with the plate, or instead, move the Furman to the rack with the Argosy plate and place the Furman and the 1U plate you'll purchase above that Argosy plate. Then, take the 2U plate that's there now and move it to where you currently have the Furman and open 1U void. This presumes you'd rather have the Furman above the Argosy plate which I think you're implying is your preference.

For what it's worth, I've built several racks over the years and learned early on that it's a good idea to have a small selection of blank plates on hand (e.g. a couple 1U plates, a 2U, and a 3 or 4U depending on how many racks you have and how much of your rack space is void at this time. That allows you to move equipment around and swap things in and out as you need and sell/buy equipment. Of course, you can just leave the open voids as some people do, but I prefer the neater look of equipment and blank plates, which I presume you also do or you wouldn't have mentioned needing a blank plate.

Another reason I like blank plates is because I can drill holes in them to make custom equipment, such as a switching system to control additional speakers, control studio lighting, etc. You can also install jacks into a plate for whatever purpose you might desire, such as custom routing of speakers, headphones, cues, or whatever. So it can be some custom patch panel or lighting control panel, or something else.

 

[Peter Batah]

@skier Thank you for getting back to me Jerry. As I said in my original post, I cannot place any device that is too deep in the section where you see the 1U Argosy plate. Originally, I had planned on inserting my SSL Soundscape external DAW in the space above the Argossy 1U plate. That was a No-Go.

You can't tell from the photo that I attached in that post. But, part of the Argosy structure is right behind that plate. It's a little difficult to see unless those top plates are removed. I took a couple of pics from the back of the desk just now. And, of course you are spot on. I would not leave that space open under any circumstance. My OCD I suppose. I'll just have to pick one up from a local shop. Then again, there's always good 'ole Amazon!

 

[Arjan P]

Another very nice option for an empty rack space is to install a rack drawer. I have a 1U high drawer in one of my 19" racks where I keep the patch cables for the patch panels nearby. For spaces with no depth whatsoever you can also consider installing a cooling plate - a blank plate that looks (and is) functional with cooling slots.

 

[skier]

@skier ...You can't tell from the photo that I attached in that post. But, part of the Argosy structure is right behind that plate. It's a little difficult to see unless those top plates are removed. I took a couple of pics from the back of the desk just now. And, of course you are spot on. I would not leave that space open under any circumstance. My OCD I suppose. I'll just have to pick one up from a local shop. Then again, there's always good 'ole Amazon!

Ahhhh! I misunderstood your prior post to mean there was a part of the inner workings of the desk were obstructing the area behind the Argosy plate - you meant that the whole area behind that rack mounting area isn't deep enough. In that case, you're limited with the desk , as is, to the main rack. However, I think Arjan's suggestion of adding a rack drawer is an excellent idea that may work well. You might want to investigate further and see if that presents a solution you may really like.